Members present: Colin Lavers, Emma Grant, Steve Price, Trevor & Sally Smith, Wendy Payne, Chris Thomas,Eike Mueller, and Sean Kelly
Guest: Colin ?
Gimmer Crag
Thanks to Kate & Wills, a long weekend provided an opportunity for a SDMC meet in Langdale, camping at Baysbrown Farm at Chapel Stile. On Friday Chris and myself headed to renew acquaintances with Gimmer Crag, high above Mickelden and catching the most of any sun going. After a stiff climb with heavy sacs we arrived below the eastern section of the crag, and opted for an ascent of that classic climb, Bracket & Slab.
The start was quite polished with a difficult move up a short groove but good holds soon arrived. The next pitch included the famous clamber over the 'Bracket' and led to another well known feature, the very steep 'Amen Corner'. I wisely choose to bypass this fearsome struggle, and traversed right, and a short climb gained access to a slanting gangway. I bought up Chris and then decided to go right rather than climb the Slab finish as this was festooned with other teams. A short traverse left along the gangway led to a steep intimidating corner, but as I gradually climbed upwards with abundant holds, and always interesting climbing for over 100 feet to complete an excellent pitch. An convenient abseil chain provided an easy descent back to the bottom of the route.
North West Arete
After a quick lunch we descended down to the foot of the crag and started up the West Face searching for North West Arete, a choice inspired by the brilliant photo and 3* description in the guidebook. The climb started up a steep wall, then gradually traversed rightwards towards an overhanging chimney. After locating a good runner (more of which later), a steep pull on the one good hold, and carefully padding the boots on the steep rock followed by a long reach, thankfully revealed small holds, and more reasonable climbing on the still steep wall above. Now I realised my error in locating the runner under the overhang, as any vertical progress was seriously impeded by horrific rope-drag. By pulling furiously on the rope, height was gained on small holds that led to the very exposed arete. As I rounded the this, a small stance was revealed and thankfully relief from the exertion of any further upward progress. Chris came up very appreciative of the excellent climbing, and continued up the slight finger crack formed on the left edge of the arete and a good stance at the top of the route. Another thoughtfully placed abseil point led back to the sacs and descent to the ODG for a well earned beer.
Flying a Kite on Scafell Pike
Saturday saw a mass ascent of Scafell Pike on another glorious day of cloudless blue skies, via Rossett Pike and Esk Hause. a mix-up over National Trust car parks (there are two sited at each of the pubs), found Wendy and myself walking up Mickelden, whilst the others made the steep ascent up the 'Band' on Bowfell. A mostly excellent path, via Rossett Ghyll and Esk Hause climbed steadily to the highest point in England, which was liberally festooned with just about every man and his dog, and assorted kite fliers. We were joined by the others shortly.
Wendy & Chris en-route to the ODG
After the obligatory group photo, a leisurely descent to another well deserved pint at the ODG.
Chris traversing across to Bowfell Buttress
Sunday dawned into another glorious day, but the wind had noticeably increased as Chris and myself headed for Bowfell Buttress, which I last climbed over 35 years ago. After another stiff climb complete with bulging sacs and a delightful traverse, we arrived at the foot of the Buttress. Chris elected to lead off what was quite a tricky chimney pitch with rounded polished holds and the sac impeding any vertical progress. I led through and belayed at the foot of the famous steep thrutchy crack cum chimney. This was much defaced by numerous crampon and axe scratches, vandalism from many recent winter ascents. Chris swarmed up the smooth polished rock with much ease and no runners. The final vertical pitch was a full 50 metres, my ascent helpfully assisted by a hurricane force winds that literally blasted me up the climb, to land on a good level patch of grass, thankfully now sheltered from the maelstrom blowing over the top of the buttress.
Sean at the top of Bowfell Buttress
Balancing over large scree and erratics we remarked on how few were on the summit of Bowfell, compared to yesterday on Scafell Pike. Still struggling against the winds we quickly descended to the relative calm of the valley and met up with the others at Wainwrights.
Mention should also be made of Colin's traverse of the 'Langdale Skyline', over 20 miles in the most testing of conditions, completed in a little over 12 hours.
Thanks due to Dennis for organising an excellent meet, weather and campsite. A shame you couldn't be there.